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Here's the servo mount/top link mount: It works well. It has a slight limitation when turning to the left but is very minimal. I tried to correct it but there is absolutely no way to do it. The options for servo placement are, well......there are no options with the stock chassis layout. It is in the only place it can go aside from up inside the chassis (stock location). If you use link mounted suspension, then *maybe* something else could be done. I may look into that at a later time. The pic shows the 1st version to btw. I made some slight changes to the second one which is mounted on the rear diff but with no servo. The functionality stayed the same but made some more clearance in some areas. Here's a side shot of the servo mount/top link mount. Notice the angle of the diff with referrence to the tranny. Very steep. That's designed in and can't be changed, that's why the servo is sitting at such an odd angle. I had to be careful with that when I designed the links because by not doing so, the angle of the axle tubes would have been chaged and the steering properties would have gone out the window. I suppose they (HPI) did that to decrease the angle of the driveshaft approach from diff to tranny.  Here's the 2nd version servo mount/top link mount. If you want to replace your top links with aftermarket links, you *have* to have a top link mount made as well. The setup HPI uses has the top links molded into one piece. In order to install the servo mount angle aluminum, the stock mount had to be eliminated and that allowed, or forced, the need for a new top link mount along with the servo mount. Being that the top link mount and servo mount were basically going to share the same space, it made sense to make them all one piece.  Another shot of the servo mount/top link mount. You'll notice 4 holes. That is where the servo mounting arms will go if you wish to add 4 wheel steering.  This pic shows the rear lockout. It is very simple and some may be able to do this on their own. I removed the *super-flimsy* plastic lockout and replaced it with two 3mm set screws and four Traxxas rod ends. It connects the knuckle arms to the shock mounts. The set screws had to be bent to around 20 degrees or so to make it work properly. I will offer this as well since it is not just a simple assemble and install step. Like I said, it is not hard to do so many will be able to do this on their own.  That's it for now. The 4-link bars are on their in all the pics so you can check them out too. I think they match the chassis pretty well so if you plan to keep the chassis and just upgrade the links, it'll all look good anyway. |